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In Agra, decent options outside the big hotels are few: cautious eaters should avoid the hole-in-the-wall restaurants occupying the alleys around the Taj Mahal and instead take a rickshaw out to Only, a garden restaurant at 45 Taj Road (00 91 5) which attracts local family parties as readily as Western tour groups.

Sit out on its shaded lawns for splendid Mughlai cooking.

Motorised traffic is banned from the complex surrounding the Taj Mahal. Admission is Rs750 (£9) for foreigners and Rs20 (25p) for Indian nationals. Undoubtedly the best placed and smartest hotel in Agra is the Oberoi Amarvilas at Taj East Gate Road (00 91 5; Jaipur, as capital of Rajasthan, has a role as a commercial and administrative centre that has nothing to do with tourism, and a population of 2.5m.The city's alluringly frenetic old quarter is known as the Pink City after its red-washed buildings, packed with stalls selling everything from silk to milk.Alternatively, turn your itinerary over to SD Enterprises (020 8903 3411; which sells point-to-point tickets, itineraries and Ind Rail passes - which come in a variety of options from half a day in second class (£6) to 90 days in air-conditioned comfort (£550). To find your train amidst the crowds and the chaos, choose a porter at the station entrance, show him your ticket and (for a small fee) he will carry your bags to the correct platform.As a guide, the basic fare from Delhi to Agra in a comfortable, airline-style reclining seat is 375 rupees (about £4.50).

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